Expat Travel Mom

We drove from Vienna into Croatia, country number 33 for me, and Zagreb the most personally meaningful stop of the whole trip, as we were remembering my grandfather who had just recently passed, and pouring one out to him while here. I think every minute of our few days here, we were all highly conscious of what it all meant and felt him with us.

Arrival, and Pouring One Out for Grandpa

We poured one out for my grandpa as we wandered the city and explored the Advent markets, a small, quiet tribute in a place that felt right for it. His father, my great grandfather, was born in Miljana, and his baptism was recorded at St. Mark's Church. I remember my great grandfather well, just like my grandfather...like one in the same. 

Me, great grandpa, grandpa and mom

One of our favorite finds was the Grič Tunnel, a wartime passage built beneath the city that now hosts rotating art installations, so it looks completely different depending on when you walk through. 

Our Airbnb sat directly across from Zagreb Cathedral, its twin spires dominating the skyline, though the cathedral is still recovering from a 2020 earthquake that knocked down one of its spires along with the cross that topped it. Restoration work continues, although it was closed while we were there, a genuine symbol of resilience for the city.

A Full Day

Our last full day in Zagreb might have been the fullest day of the entire trip. We found the church where my great-grandfather was baptism was recorded, a genuinely special stop for our family specifically. From there, the fresh morning market, then the noon cannon blast from Lotrščak Tower, a tradition that's been marking midday in this city for well over a century, followed by the climb up the tower itself for the view.

We visited the Museum of Broken Relationships, genuinely one of the most moving museums either of us has ever walked through, ordinary objects donated by strangers from around the world, each one tied to the end of a relationship, equal parts heartbreaking and funny depending on which case you're standing in front of. My kids really enjoyed this and we each took our own pace through the museum. It's one of those places where you aren't sure if you should go, but are so glad you did.

We walked through the Stone Gate next, part of the old city wall that still functions as an actual place of worship today, one of the only surviving gates from Zagreb's medieval fortifications. Goulash followed, then a stop to say hello to Ana's street cats, a wander down a few unplanned alleys, two more Advent markets, and an ice rink.

We treated ourselves to Thai massages along the way (something we still genuinely miss from our days in Thailand), admired the kaleidoscope-patterned ceiling at the Oktogon passage, and closed the night with a wonderful Lebanese dinner (I know, I know, but we love food and the flavors of the world) filled with more laughter than we expected. We absolutely loved our short time in Zagreb and knew immediately we'd be back.

Between the family history, the noon cannon, and a museum that somehow made heartbreak feel beautiful, Zagreb earned its place as one of the most memorable stops on this trip.