Vilnius, Lithuania — Christmas Lights, Snow, and Another Country Inside?
Christmas market season, snow-chasing, and three countries by bus, this trip through the Baltics started in Vilnius, and it did not disappoint. Other than having a friend living in Riga, we really didn't know much about this region, and that's a shame, as there's so much history.
Arrival
Travel day (we always have fun in airport and on planes as a family). I love traveling with this crew, there's always laughing and antics. We arrived at midnight in Vilnius, so we were tired, but we didn't care once we saw the cutest airport (seriously, how can an airport have that much charm!) and the town all lit up for the holidays. The air was crisp, the city was quiet, and we couldn't wait for our first day out. Tucked into our Airbnb, we fell asleep almost instantly.
I couldn't get over the decorations everywhere you went! Whether a grocery store, restaurant, retail shop, or hotel...everyone is all dressed up! So, we strolled the Christmassy streets getting our holiday vibes on.
After, we dove into some delicious Vietnamese food to warm up (yes, bringing homemade sriracha home with us). Absolutely lovely staff and cute vibe. We loved the pho, and the homemade sriracha is a must! The spring rolls were also delicious, and don’t forget a Thai green tea with condensed milk! It was busy between 6-8, so I’d make a reservation if you can and you’re coming firing that time. And if you're asking why we at pho while here...because when you can get legitimate food that you can't get back home, you take it!
And of course, on the way back to our place, the kids had to play in the snow.
Gediminas' Tower
We had very full days here in Vilnius, and we LOVE it. So much sad history here, but what a beautiful place. We hiked up to the Gediminas tower, taking in views over the whole city. It was no joke getting up there, it's not a casual stroll...I actually felt like turning around at some points. But, it was worth the trek. (We later learned about the funicular...but our step quotas were reached, so...). When you're done, head back down and treat yourself to the most wonderful comfort food on a cold day at Rotonda restaurant in the park. Everything was so fresh and delicious.
Crossing Into Užupis, and a Nearby Church
We went to "another country" while in Vilnius, technically, without ever really leaving. Užupis, which means over the river, the tiny self-declared republic tucked inside Vilnius, was complete with its own flag, bridge that acts as the "border", postage stamps, constitution, national holiday and currency tied to the price of beer which has never changed. You can stop for a passport stamp too (although not in your actual passport). It was fascinating, and I honestly don't know how I come across this stuff. While over there, we toured the area which had a lot of pleasant surprises.
When you leave, take a moment to step into St. Anne's Church, especially if it's Christmas time and you have kids, as they have a live nativity with sheep. Plus, the red clay church is truly spectacular! And for dinner, to warm up, have some potato pancakes, stroganoff and dumplings at Etno Dvaras in the city center.
The Lukiškės Prison Tour
Fun note, this is the actual prison where some of the Stranger Things prison scenes were filmed, and it only closed in 2019. We couldn't take photos, but I put it here so that you can remember to go on your visit to Vilnius!
A Dessert Detour
My youngest and I skipped the prison and hit up the most sought-after dessert cafe in town instead, Poniu Laime, no regrets. They have the most amazing selection of pastries and a very cute vibe inside. The outside was the one decorated all in red with the green door up above. People not only stand in line here, but outside you'll always see a crowd taking photos as it's one of the best decorated places.
Back to the Christmas Market
And of course, the Christmas market that we came for (every stop on this trip...Vilnius, Riga and Tallinn, were all about the Christmas markets). Everything else we learned was truly special. Vilnius did not disappoint.
Snowy streets, a genuinely wild prison tour, and enough Christmas market food to last us, Vilnius set the bar high for the rest of this trip. If you want to see the continuation of our trip, head over to the Riga, Latvia post!
(On your way out of Vilnius, check out the portal!)