Expat Travel Mom

Eight years living in Singapore, and I still don't think any blog post could ever fully do justice to the food here. Can anyone food blog on Singapore actually do it justice? Singapore is a genuine melting pot, Chinese, Malay, Indian, and everything in between, all sharing space, all influencing each other, all somehow existing perfectly on one small island. In 2020, UNESCO recognized Singapore's hawker culture as part of humanity's Intangible Cultural Heritage, and once you've eaten your way through this country, you understand exactly why. This isn't a complete list, it never could be, but here's a taste of what made our years here a genuine food lover's paradise.

Hawker Centres, the Heart of It All

You cannot understand Singapore without understanding hawker centres. These open-air food halls are where Chinese, Malay, and Indian communities have shared the same tables for generations, and where recipes get passed down through families rather than written in cookbooks. People's Park Complex in Chinatown is one of our regulars, incredible xiao long bao and la zi ji that will genuinely test your spice tolerance. We loved it here. My daughter had her favorite auntie at the xiao long bao stall, and my husband had his favorite uncle at the la zi ji stall. We may have shed a tear when we walked out for the last time.

Maxwell Food Centre deserves real credit for its history, not just its food. The building started life as a market in 1928, built, oddly enough, on one of Singapore's earliest Chinese burial grounds. During the Japanese Occupation, it served as a government cooperative store. After the war, it became a "People's Restaurant," feeding meals for 8 cents a plate. It wasn't until 1987 that it became the hawker centre we know today, and it's still home to some of Singapore's most celebrated stalls.

Satay by the Bay is exactly what it sounds like, satay right along the water near Gardens by the Bay, an easy stop if you're already spending the day there. And don't sleep on Singapore's "carrot cake," which has nothing to do with the sweet kind you're picturing. Chai tow kway is a savory dish, daikon radish cake stir-fried with egg, garlic, and preserved radish, brought here by Teochew immigrants generations ago. The name's just a loose translation, since "chai tow" can mean either radish or carrot in Hokkien. Comes in a white version and a black version with a sweeter dark soy sauce, both are worth trying.

For chicken rice, Nam Kee at Thomson was our regular, though honestly, you really can't go wrong with chicken rice at nearly any hawker centre on the island. For seafood, East Coast Lagoon Food Village is the move, BBQ seafood eaten practically on the beach. And here's the real trick to any hawker experience: bring cash, grab an ice-cold beer, and don't forget a packet of tissues, that's how you save your table here, an unspoken rule everyone just knows.

Beyond the Hawker Centres

Some of our favorite meals happened outside the hawker world entirely. Beirut Grill in Little India gave us a genuine taste of Lebanon in the middle of Singapore. Blue Bali, once tucked into the greenery of Dempsey Hill, brought a little piece of Bali to the island (since closed). Paulaner Brauhaus does an amazing brunch if you're craving something German and hearty. And when the mood called for hot pot, Singapore never disappointed there either. And yes, sometimes you just want Din Tai Fung, because everyone loves Din Tai Fung, there's no shame in that. 

For something more upscale, KOMA at Marina Bay Sands is a genuine experience, incredible Japanese food and one particularly famous drink our kids still talk about. CÉ LA VI, up on top of Marina Bay Sands, gives you the view and the food in one trip, hard to beat that combination. And Potato Head is worth a visit for the building alone, a beautifully restored space with quirky rotating art throughout, a genuinely unique atmosphere on top of a solid menu (since permanently closed).

Chinese New Year Treats

If you're ever in Singapore for Chinese New Year, seek out pineapple tarts and love letters, small, delicate treats that show up everywhere during the season. They're a genuine tradition here, and once you've had them fresh during CNY, the store-bought version back home just doesn't compare.

The Dish Everyone Actually Knows

Singapore chili crab needs no introduction, and nasi lemak, Malay coconut rice served with sambal, anchovies, egg, and cucumber, is one of those dishes that manages to be simple and completely satisfying at the same time. Both are must-haves if you're spending any real time here.

The Drink My Kids Still Miss

Koi bubble tea was, without question, my kids' favorite thing in Singapore. Nothing since has compared, we've tried, and every bubble tea shop since has been measured against Koi and come up short.

This truly isn't the complete list, we've missed so much, because that's simply what happens in a food lover's paradise, no single post could ever cover it all.