Expat Travel Mom

Once again, Hong Kong exceeded our expectations, this time during a weeklong Christmas vacation. Last year, we barely made a dent in our itinerary thanks to getting sidetracked in the best way. We thought we'd head somewhere new this year after already having an amazing time here, but Hong Kong called us back. Previously we stayed on the Kowloon side, this time we split our stay between Ma Wan Island and Hong Kong Island in an area called Wan Chai. One quick note: this isn't a stroller-friendly city, so unless your little ones are in a carrier or walking on their own, you might want to build your itinerary around Discovery Bay and Lantau Island instead.

Ma Wan Island

I wasn't sure staying on this tiny island would add much to our trip, my real intention was just to be close to Disneyland without booking the Disneyland Hotel. It surprised me, for the better. Taxis aren't allowed on the island, which got a little tricky at times, but we worked it out between buses, the subway, and the ferry, and it's completely walkable and beautiful. We stayed at an Airbnb in a community called Park Island, right next to the Park Island Pier, with an expat grocery store, a Pacific Coffee, and plenty of eateries within walking distance. A genuine retreat from the city, highly recommend.

Noah's Ark and Solar Tower

Found on Ma Wan Island, we'd spotted this life-size ark structure on a previous drive between the airport and Kowloon without giving it much thought. This time, we stumbled across it again on a walk, and with few crowds thanks to the weather, figured it was as good a time as any to visit Noah's Ark. The kids loved the animal replicas, and each floor has its own activities, the story of the ark, hands-on science, and some personal development pieces mixed in. There's a ropes course on site too, weather permitting, though we didn't get to it. Across from the entrance, included in admission, is a gorgeous, lush tropical park full of trails and activities, plus the Solar Tower, home to one of the largest vacuum solar telescopes in Southeast Asia. Between the Ark, the park, and the Tower, the four hours we spent there were well worth the admission.

Ferry Rides

Ferry rides genuinely excite the kids, for whatever reason. We considered a taxi from Ma Wan to Hong Kong Island but chose the ferry instead, less hassle, and our Airbnb was right at the pier. In 22 minutes we were at the Central pier. My advice: leave time for lunch at the Ma Wan pier first, at a little local spot called Mo-Ikken Café. Delicious.

Tram to the Peak

The only thing we did on Hong Kong Island last trip was Ocean Park, and people were shocked we'd skipped the tram to the Peak. First tip: go on a weekday, and go early. We waited only 10 minutes in line, but by the time we came back down, the line had doubled back across the street, easily 45 minutes or more. While you wait, there's a small historical gallery to browse. We paid extra for Sky Terrace 428 access, 360-degree views, genuinely beautiful. The one letdown was how commercialized the top has become, you arrive into a full mall of Western chain names. Skip those and find Mak's Noodle instead, a local spot, affordable and delicious.

Walking

During both stays, no matter where we were based, we loved walking around. That's how you stumble onto the things that never make it onto an itinerary. Even with kids in tow, there's enough along the way to keep them entertained, the shops alone provide entertainment. We've come across Christmas festivals in December, art displays, concerts, kitschy little shops, and wonderful eateries. Wan Chai was a fantastic base, we walked to both Times Square and Pacific Place Mall, stopping along the way. Maybe my single favorite thing to do in Hong Kong.

Malls Are Not Just for Shopping

One thing we've noticed and loved about Hong Kong's malls: there's always some display or interactive moment happening. This past December we caught a huge Star Wars Lego display at Times Square, truly spectacular, and a breathtaking Christmas bear display at Landmark Mall on behalf of Make-A-Wish. Art exhibits, kids' crafting fairs, these malls offer far more than shopping.

Eating

You simply can't eat enough in this city. I love trying restaurants recommended by our Airbnb hosts, expats or locals renting out extra properties, either way you get the best of the best, usually holes in the wall that are affordable and unforgettable. Look for a crowd down a small street and it's usually a win. Can't read the menu? Scan-and-translate apps make that a non-issue these days. For a great view with fantastic food, head to Wooloomooloo in Wan Chai.

An Extra Tip for Late Flights

We found a genuine gem this trip. We love booking later flights home, it gives us time to wake up properly, eat, and pack, plus one last outing before we go. But what do you do with your luggage when checkout is noon and your flight isn't until 5pm? In Hong Kong, simply drop your bags at the In-Town Check-in location on the ground floor of the Hong Kong MTR station, below IFC Mall. Available anywhere from 90 minutes to 24 hours before your flight (check your airline's specific window), it's an amazing deal, and you'll want your Airport Express train ticket in hand too. The kids thought it was a hoot.

Hong Kong simply can't be done in a week, or two. We'll be back again (Update to say we did in 2019!). I hope you find even more to do in Hong Kong with kids than what we've found so far.